Day 30: Port Elgin, New Brunswick

Day 30: Port Elgin, New Brunswick, Canada

July 12, 2016

Miles: 54 (plus 8 more by shuttle)

Charlottetown, PEI to Port Elgin, NB



We finally got back on the bikes again after two rest days in Charlottetown, PEI.  We started the day by getting up at 7am.  Di and I both felt a little tired still despite the two days of rest and that helped support our theory that the less you do the more you want to do less.  In other words, being lazy begets greater laziness.  Or, slothfulness maketh lots sloth.  Anyway, we were sluggish as we made our way to the Great George communal breakfast area.

We had the exact same breakfast as yesterday (ref. Day 29 for more details) but made the mistake of sitting at a table arranged for four seats.  Shortly after we sat down my breakfast fears were realized when we were joined by another couple.  They must have felt obligated to speak with us because that is what they proceeded to do for the entire duration of breakfast.  We learned from the gentleman that they had moved to the island 29 years ago and lived in Charlottetown.  They were at the Great George to attend a conference.  The woman spoke most of the time, but I can't tell you anything she said.  She learned forward as if to tell us an important secret and then whispered in such a low voice that neither Di nor I understood anything she said.  Fortunately, when she said something important she would pause, lean back in her chair, look knowingly and nod her head.  Di and I took that as our cue to nod our heads also while replying with "Interesting!" and "Wow" and of course, "Hmm".   As we walked back to our room, Di confessed she couldn't hear anything the woman was saying and asked me what she had been talking about.  I said I couldn't hear either and told Di I was going to ask her to tell me what the woman had said.  That made us both laugh, so at least breakfast ended enjoyably.

Poor seating selection for breakfast at the Great George

We oiled our chains, pumped the tires, loaded up the bikes and were on the road by 10am.  We took Rt.1 to the eastern end of PEI and it was a little busy, but even along this stretch of busy road PEI looked beautiful.

Riding on Rt. 1 in PEI

We saw a lot of farms

Quick break at Gass' General Store (apostrophe violation?)

Does PEI have hills? And how!

Nice to see farming is still important on PEI

Potato plants (or maybe some other kind of plant)

You're never too far from the water in PEI

Or from farms

After riding over 30 miles, we could see our intermediate destination - the Confederation Bridge.  The Confederation Bridge was completed around 20 years ago and is over 8 miles long and connects PEI to New Brunswick.   Apparently, the bridge is very famous and engineers from all over the world come to PEI to study it.  Or maybe they just want a vacation and use the bridge as an excuse.  In any event, we needed to find the shuttle that transports walkers and bicyclists because only motorists are allowed on the bridge (what is this world coming to?  I'm still vexed by the lack of sidewalk or bike lane on the new Jamestown Bridge!)

Our first glimpse of the world famous Confederation Bridge

We eventually found the shuttle, paid our fare, loaded the bikes into the back of the shuttle and ate a quick lunch before departing.  

Di is smiling over Subway's gluten free bread choice - who knew?

Riding over the bridge (in the shuttle)

Approaching the center (higher to allow cruise ships to pass underneath)

Descending the center hump

Unloading (now Di decides to take pictures!)

The shuttle dude was very helpful

The driver of the shuttle was very helpful with the loading and unloading of our bikes.  He also advised us to climb the observation tower on the New Brunswick side so we could get another view of the bridge and our last glimpses of PEI.  We were so appreciative we gave him a good tip and when he looked at the money questioningly, I said, "Have a beer on us."  All doubt left his eyes and he smiled and said, "Okay!"

The bridge to PEI from New Brunswick

View from the observation tower

We had 19 miles to ride to get to Port Elgin and our place of lodging, the Pumpkin Inn.  I realize now that I didn't take any pictures along this section of today's ride.  I could blame the impending storm that we could see ahead of us, but the truth is nothing seemed worthy of a picture.  Prince Edward Island is so beautiful that it made those 19 miles of New Brunswick seem plain and dull.  Also, it smelled bad.   I know that the odor wouldn't matter in a picture, but it was another thing that kept me from wanting to take pictures.  PEI smells like sweet flowers scented with wafts of sea air.  New Brunswick smells like dung.  Its easy to see why people love PEI, especially if they come from New Brunswick.

The rain started to fall just as we arrived in town.  We quickly found our way to the Pumpkin Inn and a few minutes after we were safely inside the torrential downpour began.

Footbridge connecting the town to Pumpkin Inn

View from our window (its raining)

We settled into our room and an hour later were ready to search for dinner.  The storm had lasted for only 45 minutes and now the sun was coming out.  Great timing!

View from our window (its not raining)

Walking the footbridge into town (its dry)

Main Street, Port Elgin is not exactly hopping on a Tuesday night

We went to the only restaurant in town that we could see.  It was called Restaurant.  Well, that's what I thought when I saw the sign over the door.  I figured there was only one restaurant in town, so why bother with a differentiator like a name when Restaurant says it all.  As it turns out, Restaurant actuall does have another name, C&J's Family Restaurant.  

Di going into Restaurant

 

We actually weren't surprised to be the only ones in Restaurant

I ordered the hot turkey sandwich, which is not a turkey sandwich that is heated before being served.  I know this now because when I asked the waitress what my cheese choices were for my sandwich, she replied that I don't have any choices.  "You get a piece of bread with turkey on it.  Then we pour gravy on the turkey.  Then we put another piece of bread on top.  Then we pour gravy on the bread.  That's a hot turkey sandwich. Comes with fries."  It turned out okay, but I don't think I need to order another hot turkey sandwich in my lifetime.  Besides, the fries weren't as good as the ones on PEI.  On PEI they taste better, but they also smell better, and the texture is like biting into a dark chocolate candy with a soft caramel center.  Its possible I miss PEI.   

That's what they call a hot turkey sandwich (cheese not an option)

We walked home from the restaurant and it had turned into such a lovely evening (hey, that's how they talk here).  It had warmed up, the sun was shining and it was even beginning to smell nicer.

Walking back to the Pumpkin Inn (leftmost building)

An idyllic walk back to the Pumpkin

Tomorrow we are off to Moncton where I hear it smells just lovely.