Day 11: Bar Harbor

Day 11: Bar Harbor, ME

June 23, 2016

Miles: 48

Average Speed 9.7 mph

Bucksport to Bar Harbor


We got up at 7am and were out of the motel at 8:15.  We were riding to Bar Habor today and we needed to go almost 50 miles, so we wanted to get an early start.  Plus, the rides in Maine so far have been very hilly, so we wanted to give ourselves plenty of time to make it to Bar Harbor.

We rode to the one open diner in town - The Rise and Shine Diner.  There are actually two diners in Bucksport, but as everyone knows, the other one closes on Thursdays (we were told this by our waitress at dinner last night).  The Rise and Shine Diner was really hopping and it quckly became clear why - the food is great!  I ordered two blueberry pancakes with an egg on the side (the biker's classic) and Di got a veggie omelet. 

Those are some large pancakes

 It took us a while to finish our meal, but we were still on the rode by 9:30am.  It was a warm morning with a full sun and it felt like a perfect day for a ride.  Of course, it was hilly, but we knew we were taking a rest day tomorrow and this let us attack those hills with vigor.  We didn't have to worry about being tired tomorrow.

Di puts another hill behind her

Today's hills were different from those of prior days.  The inclines were not as severe and this made the climbs and descents longer and gentler.  Also, there were actually some substantial tops to the hills, which is very different from the immediate descents we were accustomed to after a climb.  Even though we were reaching elevations only in the 800 to 900 foot range, the differences in terrain and folliage on the hilltops made it feel we were climbing significant mountains.

Di on top of the mountain

 It became cooler as the day progressed which made it even better to ride.  I guess by now we must be getting used to the hills because we were riding well and really enjoying the ride.  I was having so much fun I actually pulled a Di and rode "no hands", which is something I never do (I'm too chicken).

Pulling a Di

We had ridden almost 30 miles and had reached the town of Ellsworth.  As we approached the center of town we pulled over to figure out the best way to navigate through the traffic.  As we were looking at our maps, a woman pulled over and asked us if we were riding to Bar Harbor.  We said yes and she said she could show us the best way to get there.  She rides out to Bar Harbor a few times a week and thought the official maps don't indicate the best route.  She spent about twenty minutes with us and showed us how to avoid the congestion of downtown Ellsworth as well as some alternative roads tp take into Bar Harbor.  After telling us all this information she asked if we were going to remember it all and something in the way we said yes must have made her think we wouldn't, because she went to her car and proceeded to write down everything she had just told us.  We protested that it wasn't necessary, but she didn't believe us and probably she was quite right not to do so.   Her name was Leelee and we really appreciated her help.

Leelee shows Di the best route to Bar Harbor

Leelee and me

As we rode away from Leelee I reminded Di of the time we were riding to Philly and needed to stop and ask directions.  A woman kindly spent 10 minutes giving us directions and after thanking her, we immediately proceeded to go in the opposite direction of the way she had just told us.  Once we realized what we had done we knew we couldn't turn back for fear of running into her again and suffering a great embarrassment.  We had to hide for a while until we thought the woman would no longer be around to see us before we could turn back and follow the directions correctly.  We were reminiscing and laughing about this event when we were forced to brake suddenly because we had followed a dirt road that had brought us to the river.  Not a bridge over the river, mind you, but the actual river.  The most surprising thing about us getting lost is that we are still surprised when it happens.  Such was the case at this moment - our initial reaction was that the river should not be there.  It gradually dawned upon us that we had messed up the directions after only a minute of following them, which, as you now know, is not a record for us.  Eventually we righted ourselves and were on our way.

The temperature continued to drop and dark clouds loomed overhead.  The rain started around 2pm and fortunately we found a place to stop for lunch about 30 minutes later. Mother's Kitchen has no indoor seating, so even though it was now a hard rain Di and I sat ourside under a large umbrella to eat our lunch.  It was fun to be under that huge umbrella keeping us dry with the wind blowing and the rain coming down while we ate.  Di had a bean salad and a turkey sandwich and I had the Grandpa, which is the homemade meatloaf sandwich.

Di enjoying our wholesome lunch

We were on the road again by 3:30pm and had only 11 miles to ride to Bar Harbor. We had some pretty views of the water along the way.

Pretty water

Naturally, we had some pretty good hills to climb.

That ridge line ahead is a good indication a climb is in our future

Di passing under one of the roads of Acadia National Park

And finally, we were there!

Di in awe of the Bar Harbor sign

We rode to our inn, the Wonder View, and discovered the toughest climb of the day was actually the driveway up to the inn's office.  Di said her Garmin registered the climb at 18%.  That's just foolish.  I guess at one time the inn offered wonderful views of the town and surrounding water, but now the trees have grown to obscure that view (the Wonder Obscured View Inn).

Di going out on the balconey to see no view

After we relaxed, we took the free shuttle to downtown Bar Harbor and walked around a bit before settling on Blaze Restaurant for dinner.  Di ordered steak and lobster!  I order the scallop and lobster risotto! 

Dinner at Blaze

Outdoor seating at Blaze

Tomorrow is a rest day for us.  There is Bar Harbor to explore and also Acadia National Park. I don't think we can visit both places in one day, so hopefully I can convince Di to hang around town drinking iced coffee and visiting the shops.


For we pay a price for everything we get in this world; and although ambitions are well worth having, they are not to be cheaply won, but exact their dues of work and self-denial, anxiety and discouragement.
- From Anne of Green Gables